Influencia de la disipación y reflexión de energía en la morfología del perfil de playaperfil de equilibrio en dos tramos

Résumé

The equilibrium profile concept allows to model analytically the morphology of the beach profile. Considering the differents forces that operate along the profile, two sections are described: one subject to breaker waves, where the dissipation is due to the breaker turbulence and other subject to the shoaling waves, where the dissipation is due to bottom friction. An analytical expression is obtained for each section that named breaker profile and shoaling profile, respectively. Following previous studies, the effect of reflection in the profile morphology is accounted for. The final expressions are composed for two terms: one corresponds with dissipation effect and the other related with reflection. The model was contrasted with actual data measured along the Spanish coast. The results verified the good agreement of the mathematical expressions. Those results allowed to characterise the morphology of the beach profile since the coefficients values (AR, B, C y D) associated to dissipation and reflection phenomenon.