Nearshore Morphodynamics of Poço da Cruz - Mira coastal stretch (NW Portugal) during the winter 2016/2017

  1. A. Fontán-Bouzas
  2. P. Baptista
  3. P.A. Silva
  4. L. Tubarao
  5. C. Ferreira
  6. J. Alcántara-Carrió
  7. J. Barbosa
  8. C. Bernardes
Journal:
Geotemas (Madrid)

ISSN: 1576-5172

Year of publication: 2017

Issue Title: IX Jornadas de Geomorfología Litoral (Menorca, 2017)

Issue: 17

Pages: 343-346

Type: Article

More publications in: Geotemas (Madrid)

Abstract

This study analyses the morphodynamics of dunes, beach and submerged proximal area in a 4.7 km coastal sector from Poço da Cruz to Mira (S of Aveiro, Portugal). During the winter of 2016/2017 a coastal monitoring programme was carried out including: 25 topographic surveys of dune and beach profiles with DGPS, local hydrodynamic measurements (wave height and currents) and 2 bathymetric surveys before and after winter. The maritime wave climate has been characterized by data base of the numerical model SIMAR. Sedimentary budget, coastline displacements (in frontal dune toe) and changes in dune slope were quantified, among other morphological parameters. The results highlight some features as a mean rate of coastline retreat (up to -45 m) and coastline progradation (up to +40 m), as well as the identification of eroded or most vulnerable zones during winter. This study also contributes to the knowledge of the three-dimensional beach characteristics and to determine the influence of submerged sandbanks in the behaviour of emerged beach-dune system.